With new heater hose assembly, the heater core hoses have preloaded retainers and are glued to rubber hoses which make fitment lot easier. , bit of pushing and pulling will eventually get everything into place. Reverse procedure and feed in new heater hose assembly back through firewall whilst working hoses along fire wall Once everything is released, pull the heater hoses into engine bay. Need to release heater hose quick connectors from upright metal pipes in reference to Hemi 6.4L. Remove all 3 bolts, remove metal cover plate and put aside. Beside the heater pipe plastic plate is a metal cover plate, the metal cover place has 2 10mm bolts. In engine bay side it’s a plastic firewall where the inlet/outlets heater plate is held in by 1 10mm bolt. For ease of releasing rubber heater hoses, use box cutter blade and gently slice rubber hose along length, but don’t dig into rubber hose, top layer is sufficient. Use angled long nose pliers to get a firm grip on sprung retaining clips to release sprung tension and work hose retainer clips away from heater core tubes to allow rubber hoses to be massaged off heater core pipes. for ease of access to rear Heater pipes simply unbolt and unplug wiper assembly and remove the wiper assembly as this will provide adequate room to get to old heater hoses from heater core tubes. Engine bay heater hoses join to rear heater pipes in cavity between 2 firewalls. Jeep GC has 2 firewalls and between is cavity and it is accessible by simply removing wiper arms, then unclip and raise plenum plastic cover, no need to remove cover completely, lift and prop up. Heater hoses are complete set including mounting plate. ![]() Flexible locking spring clamp pliers are a big help here unless you have 3 hands. 2) The spring clamps on those hoses are not aligned in a way that makes your life easy, and the hoses probably aren't going to want to come off the fittings without a fight. 1) Don't worry about cutting or breaking the original plastic mounting plate you're going to replace it anyway. get all the way to the heater core) then you may need to do more digging. You'll see what I'm talking about if you order the part or open up the plastic cover where the fittings pass through the firewall. The assembly includes two small hoses that lead from the firewall to and from the core. It's tight and awkward but definitely doable.Ħ8137715AA is the whole supply and return hose/tube assembly (for 2011 5.7 engine, possibly different part if you've got something else). If it's just leaking from a hairline crack in the black plastic elbow you can swap that out. To answer your question directly, no, you do not need to disturb the dash to replace anything that you can see from the engine side. In fact, if you haven't done it yet, you're overdue for a coolant replacement and flush, just on years alone, the Chrysler HOAT needs to be changed every 5 years / 100k miles. ![]() 2011 is Chrysler HOAT, either get if from the Dealer or get Zerex G-05 which is the aftermarket equivalent of CHrysler HOAT. Make sure to use the right anti-freeze, the aftermarket sells a lot of anti-freeze that they don't identify what kind of anti-freeze it is, with vague statements like it will work with any anti-freeze stay away from that. Otherwise the solution is to find new OEM hoses with the fittings on them and replace them. Finding new o-rings for the fittings might work, they may have a repair kit. ![]() If it is the hose or the fitting on the end of the hose, one cheap option is just get universal heater hose at the proper diameter and hose clamps and just clamp it to the tubes. ![]() I maybe thinking of the other end of the hose, that I have pulled. The fitting is plastic with little O-rings that I would think would be more likely to fail than the tube itself. Are you sure? You can pull the fitting and inspect the tube.
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